Solo Ride – Vietnam

Last night, the plan for today was to ride straight to Nha Trang and to get one step closer to Hanoi. But this morning, while sipping coffee and doing a bit of internet research, I read that the road from Da Lat to Phan Rang is apparently one of the best motorcycle routes in all of Vietnam. So that was that decided!

The change in plan means that instead of heading towards Hanoi, I’d actually be going further south. But sometimes the long way round is the right way round!

I set off just after 7am and within an hour, I knew I’d made the right choice.

The route wound down through mountain passes that seemed to descend forever, switchback after switchback, each one opening up new views of valleys and open landscapes stretching into the distance. The air changed too – starting cool and misty in Da Lat, then gradually growing warmer as I dropped in altitude. You could actually feel the temperature climbing with every few kilometres.

There wasn’t much traffic at all but I kept a slow and steady pace anyway – partly to take in the scenery, partly because today I wasn’t in a rush. 

I arrived into Phan Rang just after Mid-day, which wasn’t bad going at all. The hotel I’d booked turned out to be a result – right on the seafront, pool included, and all for £30 a night. Not too shabby. I checked in, showered off the road dust and had a short rest before heading down for a swim and a walk along the beach. After days in the highlands, the sea air and palm trees felt like stepping into a different Vietnam entirely.

In the evening, I took the bike back out to explore Phan Rang at night – neon signs glowing, families out eating, motorbikes weaving through the streets.  I found a busy-looking Vietnamese BBQ place, and the smell convinced me. I had beef, prawns and chicken – all cooked by me at the little grill built into the table. As I was nearing the end of my meal – I felt a tap on the top of head and turned to see a little boy laughing and smiling at me – we had a nice little chat and I took a selfie! There are always lots of little moments like this in Vietnam!

After a lovely meal, it was back to the hotel for an early night.

Tomorrow, I’ll finally start heading in the right direction again – north, up the coast towards Nha Trang. This stretch of coastal road is said to be spectacular, so if today was any indication, it should be another good ride.

And this time, at least, I’ll be getting closer to Hanoi rather than further away!