Solo Ride – Vietnam

I got up at 8am and checked the latest updates on Storm Fengshen. The eye of the storm was showing just off the coast of Đà Nẵng, but around Quy Nhơn – the next stop on my planned route – things looked fairy clear. A quick consultation with ChatGPT and I felt confident it would be safe to go for it.

It turned out to be the right decision. The next five hours were brilliant riding – warm air, clear skies, and stunning scenery. I followed the Tigit Motorbikes recommended route – the purple road on my mapping app.

The road wound through fishing villages and quiet stretches of countryside. The tarmac was smooth for the most part, occasionally dipping into short, rougher sections.

After about three hours, the route began to narrow. The tarmac disappeared and I found myself on a small, muddy, uneven track. I started to wonder where exactly the map was taking me! But about ten minutes later, I understood.

I arrived at the Cù Mông wooden bridge – an amazing structure built and maintained by entrepreneurial locals – that crosses part of an estuary between Bình Định and Phú Yên provinces. It’s made entirely of wood – planks and bamboo poles of all shapes and sizes nailed and lashed together in what looks like avery precarious way.

It reminded me of those team-building days we’ve all done – when you’re asked to build a structure out of dry spaghetti and marshmallows – and somehow it all holds together!

I stopped to watch another motorbike cross safely, then decided to give it a go myself. The bridge rattled and creaked under the weight of me and the bike, but it held firm. I made it across without a problem – paying a small toll at the other side. A slightly nerve-wracking but unforgettable experience!

About an hour later, I stopped at a small café with a view right across the bay. Two English chaps were having a drink at the next table, and we got chatting. It turned out they were doing a similar trip – riding rented motorbikes and exploring the south of Vietnam for two weeks. When they left and I went to pay for my drink, I was told they’d already covered it. A kind gesture.

The rest of the journey into Quy Nhơn was just as enjoyable: smooth roads, warm sunshine, and endless views of the coastline. I arrived around 2:30 pm, earlier than expected, and considered pushing on, but decided instead to find somewhere local to stay.

A quick search on Booking.com turned up a little resort about 5km outside Quy Nhơn, for just £28 a night. When I arrived, I could hardly believe my luck – I was the only guest there.

That evening, I rode back into Quy Nhơn for dinner –

Tomorrow will be an early start – 6am – for the longest stretch of the trip so far: a 270 km ride to Hội An. This time I’m abandoning the scenic purple road and sticking to the direct national highway. I need to make up for the time lost to the storm if I’m going to reach Hanoi in time.

If all goes to plan, tomorrow will mark a key milestone – the halfway point of the journey!