Solo Ride – Vietnam

I woke up at 6am in my hotel in Quy Nhon, ready for the long ride to Hoi An. But when I looked outside, my heart sank – the wind was howling, and the rain was hammering down.

I decided to wait it out in the hope the rain would stop. At around 11am, it eased ever so slightly and I decided to give it a go – even if I couldn’t make it all the way to Hoi An, at least I’d make a dent in the journey and shorten the next day’s ride.

A couple of hours in, the rain returned with a vengeance. The wind was fierce, visibility was awful, and I was soaked to the bone. But at that point, I was as wet and uncomfortable as I was going to get, so I figured I might as well keep going. The more hours that passed, the more determined I became to make it all the way.

After eight long hours in driving rain and increasing darkness, with only two brief stops for fuel, I finally rolled into Hoi An around 7pm – utterly exhausted, cold, and dripping wet. I quickly found a hotel, parked up, and checked in and then went out for a some food and a cold beer!

And then, Hoi An – even in the rain – worked its magic. Lanterns glowed softly along the streets, their reflections dancing in puddles on the cobblestones. Live music played in beautifully lit bars, and lantern-lit boats drifted along the river. Hoi An is one of those places that seems to exist slightly outside the real world – if you ever get the chance to visit – you should. Back at the hotel, I barely remember lying down before I was fast asleep.

Day 10 – Reflections in the Rain

The next morning, the rain hadn’t stopped. In fact, it seemed heavier than ever. I decided to stay in Hoi An rather than try riding to Hue – which media reports were saying was badly flooded.

I had breakfast while watching the rain pour down, then made a plan.

First, I met up with an old family friend who now lives in Hoi An and runs a health retreat. It was lovely to see a familiar face – we sat over coffee, swapping stories while the rain clattered on the windows.

Later, I took the motorbike out to My Son, an hour’s ride from Hoi An. On the way I stopped at a local garage and got the motorbike oil changed. It’s Tigit policy that oil has to be changed every 1000km – so I was overdue.

Despite the weather, the trip to My Son was stunning and fascinating – ancient temple ruins surrounded by lush green hills and low mist, a hauntingly beautiful place. The ride back, though, was brutal – torrential rain the whole way, and by the time I reached the hotel, I was completely drenched again.

Back in my room, warming up and drying off, I started to think seriously about what comes next. Looking at the forecast, there is no getting away from it – Storm Fengshen has brought heavy rain for the next 4–5 days, with the worst of it exactly where I’m due to be travelling.

I always knew rain would be part of this trip – but usually downpours last an hour or so and then clear. But this is a different kind of rain – relentless and frequently torrential – with no sign of it letting up. Riding my little bike in these conditions isn’t easy – no windscreen, water streaming down my face, glasses useless because the rain makes it impossible to see. I have to squint through the downpour and hope for the best.

Tigit motorcycles has an office in Da Nang – which is only an hour further north from here. The plan I’m thinking about now is to drop the motorbike off in Da Nang on Monday and then get an overnight sleeper train to Hanoi, where the weather is much better. From there I can rent another motorbike and continue even further north – so still aiming to cover 2000 km in total – but much more safely.

The more I consider the options, the more this feels like the right decision – riding through central Vietnam with the risk of flash floods and landslides, would be reckless.

I am gutted that it looks like I won’t be able to complete the trip as originally planned – especially as so many people have supported me in helping to raise funds for Baby Lifeline. I promise to keep up the miles once I get to Hanoi and hope people will understand the situation 🙏.

The evening I explore again. The rain that has caused me so many problems – has flooded Hoi An’s streets and somehow made it even more beautiful and magical than ever.