Solo Ride – Vietnam

I was on the road by 6 a.m., hoping to beat the worst of Hanoi’s rush hour. The plan for the next five days is to explore northern Vietnam – a loop of around 900 km, roughly the same distance I would have covered had I been able to ride straight up from Hội An to Hanoi. Judging by the news, I made the right call to leave central Vietnam. Hue – where I was due to be gọing – has just experienced the world’s second-heaviest 24-hour rainfall in recorded history!

Getting out of Hanoi was slow going – the traffic thick and chaotic – but after about an hour, the roads began to open up. From there to Mai Châu, the ride was pure joy – smooth, winding roads through rolling green hills and small roadside villages.

I found a small, inexpensive resort on Booking.com, tucked near Hòa Bình Lake, and followed Google Maps along a narrowing road that grew more beautiful with every kilometre. The final stretch revealed glimpses of the lake between the trees.

When I arrived, I honestly couldn’t believe it – the place was stunning. The resort sat in lush, flower-filled gardens alive with hundreds of butterflies. From my little lakeside cabin, the view was nothing short of breathtaking. I must admit to having a moment of feeling sad that I was on my own – it would have been a great memory to share. 

That evening I sat by the water, ate some simple but delicious food, and had a couple of cold beers as the sun went down – perfect.

Day 14: Mai Châu → Tà Xùa (~220 km)

In the morning, I was tempted to stay another day because the place was so lovely. But after a coffee and a final look at that beautiful view, I set off for the next destination.

The ride north from Mai Châu was incredible – long stretches of open road, winding mountain passes, and then, after about two hours, a short ferry across the Black River for a small toll fee.

From there, the road climbed higher and higher – the temperature dropping as my little motorbike carried me into the clouds approaching Tà Xùa. The views were dramatic: deep valleys, drifting mist, and layers of mountains rolling off into the distance.

My first stop in Tà Xùa was for a quick coffee, where I asked about places to stay. The smiley young girl serving me recommended a nearby homestay, which I quickly found and booked on Booking.com for about £20.

The homestay was a little wooden hut on the hillside with lovely views and nothing inside but a futon style bed on the floor and a small bathroom.

After checking in, I jumped straight back on the bike. Tigit Motorcycles had recommended a place nearby called the “Dinosaur Backbone” – a famous ridge that rises steeply out of the valley and can be walked or ridden along. It was a 45-minute journey along broken tarmac and dirt roads. When I arrived, it looked far too steep, narrow, and dangerous to ride – but I plucked up the courage and went for it. It certainly tested my balance and nerves – but wow, absolutely incredible.

By the time I rode back to Tà Xùa, the light was fading and the landscape was looking more and more dramatic.

I looked around for somewhere to eat, but everywhere seemed totally deserted. Eventually, I went into an empty restaurant – no one spoke a word of English but I managed to order grilled chicken and rice – which turned out to be pleasantly tasty.

The ride back to the homestay was pitch black, and the lights on my motorbike are woeful – but I made it. I’m the only person staying here and have to admit it feels a bit isolated in this little wooden hut on the hillside. The only sounds I can now hear are the insects chirping outside – I think I’ll be sleeping with the light on tonight!

Tomorrow I’ll get up early and head for the next place on the list: Mù Cang Chải – even further into the mountains.