Solo Ride – Vietnam

I woke at 6am in the wooden homestay in Mù Cang Chải and stepped out to enjoy a coffee while taking in the view. The plan for the day was to explore the local area in the morning – there were a few recommended viewing spots I wanted to reach by motorbike – and then set off for Vũ Linh and Thác Bà Lake, a recommended stop on the way back to Hanoi.

But the weather had other ideas. The forecast showed heavy rain from mid-morning, worsening through the day and again tomorrow in both Mù Cang Chải and Hanoi. A night in Vũ Linh in torrential rain didn’t sound appealing, so I made a decision: to skip the stop and aim to ride all the way back to Hanoi – about 300 km, the longest distance of the trip.

Before setting off, I still managed a bit of exploring. Google Maps led me to a local viewpoint, taking me along tiny dirt tracks that I wasn’t entirely sure my motorbike could handle. Eventually I made it, and it was definitely worth it – the view was stunning.

Then I began the long ride south.

After an hour, the rain started. It grew heavier as I climbed into the mountains, thick mist swirling around the bends and clouding the view. It was cold, wet, and slow going. Google Maps kept promising “6 hours,” but the number barely seemed to move no matter how long I rode. As I got closer to Hanoi, the rain intensified – relentless sheets of water that left me drenched and shivering. I thought about stopping at a roadside motel and finishing the journey the next day, but I really wanted to make it back.

I finally got to  Hanoi at 5:30pm – 9 hours after leaving Mù Cang Chải – cold, soaked to the skin, and utterly exhausted. I don’t think I could have gone a moment longer.

That night I stayed with my Vietnamese family, who live in the outskirts of the city. They were as warm and welcoming as ever. After a long hot shower and a change into dry clothes, we shared food and stories – a comforting end to the day.

This arrival was supposed to mark the end of a journey all the way from Ho Chi Minh City, and I can’t help feeling disappointed that the weather forced me to change plans.

Day 17 – Last Day

It’s raining heavily again in Hanoi this morning. I can’t help thinking that I’ve been very unlucky with the weather on this trip! I fly home tomorrow, so today is about resting and getting ready.

There’s a special meal planned tonight with my Vietnamese family, but before that I have a few things to do. I’ve arranged to meet my old friend Ravi for lunch in Hanoi and I need to return the bike to Tigit motorcycles.

Ravi runs The Tandoor, an amazing Indian restaurant right in the heart of Hanoi. We first met 23 years ago, when I was working in a place called Pha Lại – about 60 km from here – helping to build and commission a new coal-fired power station. Vietnam was much less developed back then, and weekends off in Hanoi were my escape. Staying in a comfortable hotel and eating at The Tandoor became a routine that I hugely looked forward to. We’ve stayed in touch ever since, and I always look forward to his company and his wonderful food – not just the best Indian food I’ve had in Vietnam – the best I’ve had full stop!

After lunch, I rode the motorbike back to Tigit Motorcycles about 30 mins away – where the team were as friendly and helpful as ever. We chatted about my trip, and I told them about my struggles with the weather. They shared stories of other riders who’d faced the same challenges – some had even been forced to abandon their bikes altogether and were still stranded in central Vietnam, wading through water up to a metre deep! So in hindsight – a lucky escape!

That evening, I ate with my Vietnamese family – lovely food, laughter, and the warmest company.

Tomorrow, I set off home.

This trip has been tougher than I expected – long days, relentless rain, and some truly awful weather. I’ve added up the total distance covered: just over 2,000 km. It wasn’t quite the route I’d planned – but it’s been an adventure I will remember for a long time.

Would I do it again? Absolutely – though not at this time of year. Next time, I’d aim for March or April, when the south and central regions are still in their dry season and the north has started to warm up. Since I missed the ride from central Vietnam to Hanoi, coming back to complete that stretch properly feels like unfinished business and something I know I’ll have to do one day.

This has been a meaningful trip for me. I know from previous experience that the time of year around Joshua’s birthday is always difficult, and this journey has been both a distraction and an opportunity to think and remember.

I’ve also used this challenge to raise funds for the brilliant charity Baby Lifeline. Baby Lifeline was founded by Judy Ledger, after the loss of her three babies – Stuart, Emma, and Lisa. Over the past 44 years, the chairty has raised huge amounts for vital maternity equipment (both in the UK and in places affected by war, like Ukraine) and provided training for thousands of maternity professionals to help make care safer for mothers and babies and prevent deaths like Joshua.

I’m incredibly grateful for the generosity and support that’s helped raise over £2,400 so far. Every penny goes directly to Baby Lifeline, and it really will make a difference.

If you’d like to donate – the link is here.